back to the desert

3.11.2009
We are back home again very much refreshed from a few days away. It was in many ways more affective as a break than the usual type of holiday because we just re-entered the life we used to live in the Northern Territory. We had a totally separate life there with different jobs, different friends and of course we were working and living in Aboriginal land where we respected their culture and law.

Our friends gave us such a warm welcome home that with in a day we had forgotten about all the things we were struggling with down here. Marg had arranged for us to travel with her, and her partner, to Tilmouth bore on the Tanami Track We planned to spend Friday night there so that we had a good start in the morning and could arrive in time for the funeral in Yuendumu next day.

Rather to our surprise we had an extremely good dinner and had very adequate cabins to sleep in. The snag was that we had all brought wine for the meal and we could not take it any further up the track into alcohol free communities. We solved this problem by retiring to the dry creek bed, lighting a campfire and finishing off the bottles. I was so relaxed and comfortable I fell asleep in the warm sand. Edd had to wake me so we did not waste the money we had paid for the cabin!
It is several years since we last visited Yuendumu and the Government Intervention program had taken place in the interim period. I was glad of the chance to see how this had affected things first hand. Everyone we spoke to agreed that it had been a total disaster. Once again the Aboriginal people had been totally disempowered. Yuendumu was still full of rubbish and broken down buildings. If anything it looked worse than it did when we lived there. At that time there were still nice, shade trees around but someone decided that they were athel pines and noxious weeds so they cut them all down!

We arrived as people started to gather at the church. It was a very sad business. The lady who had passed away had been exceptional in many ways and was much loved and respected. She strongly supported the school as a teacher in the bi-lingual program and was also strong in her own culture. Her death is an enormous loss to everyone. Despite the sadness of the occasion I was glad we had made the effort to be there. It was a chance to once again join with the community and just be together in one mind.

We were a long time in the church because many of the letters her family had received were read out and everyone said goodbye personally over the coffin. The co-wife’s son played lovely soft music on a keyboard all the time, which softened things, a bit. At one stage a whirlwind hit the church and dust poured through the windows, which were quickly pulled shut, and it got very hot. After the service we all drove out into the bush so that she could be buried with relatives.

I was very upset to see her husband silently, expressing his grief with his body language. I have always known him as a strong character with a ready grin and great sense of humour. I longed to approach him and let him know we were there for him, but he was being well looked after by the men of his family and it was not the right time. One of the younger ladies of the family sang Amazing Grace, which was hauntingly beautiful.

When we returned to Yuendumu we had tea with Alex before starting the journey home. I have know Alex for nearly 20 years and it was great to see her back living in Yuendumu with a nice partner. Her mother was a great support to me when I first started working up North and I miss the whole family. We had brief conversations with many people who were there and it was surprising to see so many familiar faces. The trip back to Alice Springs was fast. We stopped to help one woman change a tyre but mostly we travelled at extraordinary speed, which was OK as the road conditions were good.

On Sunday we hired a car and drove very sedately with Patsy out to Glen Helen and Ormiston Gorge. The food at Glen Helen was disappointing but we had a restful afternoon sat by the large water hole in Ormiston Gorge. Patsy and I swapped stories about water places. She told me about one of the water holes were people have drowned and divers could never find the bottom or the body. I told her about the Strid in Yorkshire where I come from. I never tire of listening to Patsy’s stories. She has had the most amazing life and every moment I spend with her seems precious.

Saying goodbye again was hard. Yet another sad time. Luckily Marg had asked us to a party at her place the night before we flew home and that made a very cheerful note to leave on. We met several new people who were really interesting to talk to. I am worried about Marg. She is working too hard against impossible odds. Most of the white people who have struggled for social justice burn out after a few years but somehow Marg has managed to keep going. Once again, a person who I feel privileged to call a friend. I feel totally renewed for time spent with all these wonderful women.

21.10.2009 We are exhausted

It has been a very full on week. Ben and his helper have camped out in the polyhouse and worked for three days to pour the slab for the dairy. Steve and Johno called in extra help in the form of Sandy and have struggled with the shed roofs They have only succeeding in getting one side of iron on the tool shed. It is very high and the long sheets of iron are difficult to manoeuvre if there is any wind.

At least it is drying up a bit. The rain has helped the grass seed I sowed in the old house site sprout up and the flowers that I have rescued from all over the place and replanted in one garden continue to make a glorious display. I do not think there is any year I have enjoyed the flowers so much. Orange, hot pink, purple and yellow make a cheery sight what ever else is going on.

Edd and I are totally exhausted. The only thing keeping us going is the knowledge that tomorrow we set of to Alice Springs for our friend’s funeral. Marg has offered to give us a lift out to Yuendumu in her car and the thought of warm weather and the chance to see all our desert friends again is over whelming. It is very sad that someone has passed away but it gives us a really good excuse to get up and go!

All our workers are nice people and we eat together and chat but every single one of them is male. I often feel as if I cramp everyone’s style by joining them. They have not yet developed the technique of ignoring my female status. Most of my life seems to have been spent in the men’s camp but usually I get treated as a boy after a bit.